If your tween is asking for a mini beauty fridge, retinol serum, and $40 eye cream (and mine is!), you’re not imagining things. Tween skincare obsession is booming online—and dermatologists are urging caution.

A new peer-reviewed study published in Pediatrics by researchers at Northwestern University has found that girls as young as seven are following complex skincare routines influenced by social media trends. These routines often include multiple “active” ingredients—like exfoliating acids, retinoids, and fragrances—products that can irritate or even permanently sensitize young skin.

A troubling trend on TikTok

The study, which analyzed top-viewed TikTok videos, revealed that many of these skincare routines include an average of six products per day, with some layering as many as 15. The researchers observed that these regimens frequently excluded sunscreen—despite its critical role in protecting developing skin.

According to the Northwestern University press release, one of the researchers, Dr. Molly Hales, a postdoctoral research fellow and board-certified dermatologist at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine, said “It’s problematic to show girls devoting this much time and attention to their skin. We’re setting a very high standard for these girls. The pursuit of health has become a kind of virtue in our society, but the ideal of ‘health’ is also very wrapped up in ideals of beauty, thinness and whiteness. The insidious thing about ‘skin care’ is that it claims to be about health.”

Expensive—and often unnecessary

The financial impact is also considerable: the average routine analyzed by the study cost about $168 per month. Some exceeded $500, according to the study’s findings. And yet, researchers note that these elaborate regimens rarely improve skin health—particularly when they exclude essentials like sunscreen or rely on repeated use of similar active ingredients across different products.

The hidden messages behind ‘glow-up’ culture

The study also raised concern about the messaging encoded in popular skincare content. The researchers noted that some videos appeared to reinforce racialized beauty standards, particularly around the desirability of “brighter” or lighter skin tones. While these findings require further study, they underline the ways social media can shape not just consumer habits, but also cultural identity and self-worth.

Related: Popular hair and skincare products contain concerning chemicals that could harm kids

What to watch for

If your child is showing interest in skincare, that’s not inherently a bad thing. Curiosity can be a great entry point to self-care and body literacy. But here are some signs they may be overdoing it:

  • Redness, peeling, or sensitivity after using products
  • Layering multiple “actives” like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, vitamin C, or retinol
  • Skipping sunscreen, which is essential
  • Using adult-targeted products, especially those labeled “anti-aging” or “brightening”

The American Academy of Dermatology recommends a basic routine for tweens and teens:

  • Gentle cleanser
  • Fragrance-free moisturizer
  • Daily sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher)
    Unless prescribed by a dermatologist, kids don’t need products with strong actives.

Read AAD’s guidance for kids and teen skincare

How to talk to your tween about skincare

Instead of banning products outright, consider this approach:

  • Affirm their interest. Let them know it’s okay to care about their appearance. Skincare isn’t shameful—it just needs to be safe.
  • Teach what skin really needs. Explain that “tingling” or “burning” isn’t a sign that something is working—it’s a red flag.
  • Stay curious about where they’re getting their info. Ask them to show you their favorite creators, and watch together.
  • Focus on function over perfection. Ask, “How does your skin feel?” instead of “How does it look?”

Related: California bill would ban anti-aging skincare products for kids under 13

The bottom line

Skincare should be about feeling good in your body—not chasing an algorithm’s idea of beauty. Tweens don’t need a 10-step routine or a $400 haul to take care of their skin. What they do need is your guidance, reassurance, and a reminder that they’re beautiful just as they are—no filter required.

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